Jesus H. Christ…

…does Lecce have a lot of churches.  Mama Mia Cher and Meryl a lot.  90,000 people and 40 choices in the old city alone.  We set out to discover them all.  Not.  However, we did the rounds, and it was a lot of round and round.  But today was only 28, 28.5, with some breeze, Read More

What Can I Do It?

My late friend Giuseppe had a unique and lovable take on English grammar.  He inadvertently created spoonerisms, usually by perfectly mimicking pop music then purposely twisting the inane lyrics, often used the definite article wonderfully inappropriately (my favorite was “the disturb”) and had a very Italian take on the absurdities of British behaviour.  The finest Read More

The Blight on the Piazza

Our first Saturday here, which we spent in Naples (and even at 2 a.m. on a Monday is noisy, busy, chaotic and unpredictable) was noisy, busy, chaotic and wound down around Sunday mass.  Our second Saturday, in Matera, resembled the cruise ship hordes which flood Venice during summer; teeming with day trippers, women in unsound Read More

The Greatest Blog Ever Told

Our longest drive of the holiday, just under 300 kms, was today: From the coast through mountain passes and snaking along valley floors, merging onto the autostrada north, then veering east on the E847.  For all the driving on all the continents over all the years I don’t think we’ve ever driven over so many Read More

The Poseidon Adventure

Another hot sunny day.  Since we were toast from the beach yesterday we opted to drive up the coast to Paestum, a Greek ruins that has some spectacular temples in not bad repair.  I refused to trace our steps along the coast so we trusted Penelope to guide us through another route.  Either she forgot Read More

Put on Your Noseguard. Put on the Lifeguard. Pass the Tanning Butter.

Woke up very early and couldn’t sleep so threw on yesterday’s clothes and went out for a 6:30 a.m. walk; got 7000 steps in before the day had started.  The air was ripe with oleander and jasmine, which litter the roadside, there were myriad bleating goats on the adjacent farm, swallows were up, dive bombing, Read More

Hard Brexit

More words than pictures today; we were mostly in transit.  We checked out of our hotel just after nine, took a cab to the central station.  Seat belts are optional in Naples (they constrain the body, which must be free to wildly disrespect all other drivers), scooters and motorbikes rule, nudging bumpers is the order Read More

I can see for miles and miles and miles and miles and miles. Oh yeah.

Go to Capri or stay in town? We were torn. I voted stay. We started uphill towards Capodimonte, to see the largest catacombs in southern Italy, which are under the church of Madre del Buon Consiglio. En route, we passed a tiny shop selling Setaro pasta. Score! Not available in Canada. Giada “can’t live without Read More

It May Sound Vain with a Latin Name

So today a couple of things: An amazing experience seeing both Pompeii and Herculaneum.  Stupendous.  And then something else: Getting there and back. At our age we could have hired a driver; pick us up at the hotel, drop us off on site.  We could have done what zillions of tourists do and taken a Read More

In Napoli Beside the Sea

Air conditioning and insulation; modernity is heaven.  We took breakfast in the hotel, included in the rate, then set out to explore.  Hazy to begin with it was hot from the get go.  A welcome breeze off the water did nothing to dry the sweat. We headed towards the harbour to a tonier area than Read More

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