God in the Middle & Verdi’s “Ugliest Opera”

We didn’t go to a church today, literally, but we did go to the high temple of opera. More on that later. First, let’s go to a museum of a church! Three great things about the Duomo Archaeological Museum. First, you have to pay extra over and above going to the church so not that Read More

Plastic Dynamism, Synthetic Definition and Historiographical Taxonomies

It was all art, all day.  All art baby.  Cans of Love in Preserve art. You might not even see a church in today’s post. We did a tour of the Museo de Novecento, which sits in the Palazzo dell’Arengario (begun in the Fascist era, bombed in the war, finished in the 50s, renovated as Read More

Old News & Other Oxymorons

We checked into a quirky hotel in Milan. Make of it what you will, it’s not run of the mill. Rooms have a theme; ours is hunting lodge. Go figure As with most tourists, we set off to the centre. One of the first things tourists do is take pictures of the (very impressive) duomo. Read More

I Don’t Know Why You Say “Goodbye” I say “Hello”

That’s the thing with ciao, isn’t it? Only less confusing than I Am the Walrus. Worse is prego. If you bother to say thank you, grazie, you are virtually forcing an Italian to say prego; often you can hear the resentment… In the alternative, you can walk into a shop and be welcomed with prego–and Read More

Sunshine Enough to Spread

We decided to go to the beach.  But which beach?  SS found a decent lido nearby with a website; they had a bar graph which showed typical client traffic, hour by hour, in real time.  At 8 a.m. on a Sunday the bar graph was throbbing.  Throbbing!  Ain’t that kick in the head.  It is Read More

Changing of the Guard

When you really think about it, nothing happens when the guards change; the same uniforms, the same job descriptions, the same duties, one sentry called Oliver is replaced by another called Charlie replaced by another called Archie.  Yet there is a big half hour to-do about it and somehow it becomes picture worthy.  Which is Read More

Melonville, Springfield or Porpoise Spit?

Who knows.  Who knows?  Was yesterday’s post two days ago?  Is today the fourth day we went to the beach or the seventeenth day we looked at a church?   Was it 36.5 degrees yesterday or was that the day before, and how much hotter is 45 in France to 36 in Puglia?  In Memento the Read More

Jesus H. Christ…

…does Lecce have a lot of churches.  Mama Mia Cher and Meryl a lot.  90,000 people and 40 choices in the old city alone.  We set out to discover them all.  Not.  However, we did the rounds, and it was a lot of round and round.  But today was only 28, 28.5, with some breeze, Read More

The Blight on the Piazza

Our first Saturday here, which we spent in Naples (and even at 2 a.m. on a Monday is noisy, busy, chaotic and unpredictable) was noisy, busy, chaotic and wound down around Sunday mass.  Our second Saturday, in Matera, resembled the cruise ship hordes which flood Venice during summer; teeming with day trippers, women in unsound Read More