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Once More Unto the Breach

Another gorgeous, hot, beautiful day in Malta.  They call it November.

View from our hotel balcony this morning, Valletta, Maneol Island and Manoel Fort, the Strand in Sliema

For us, an ad-hoc adventure today to the fortified three cities (mainly Vittoriosa).  Not fortified like cereal, and speaking of three, Snap, Crackle, Pop, I should address first, with sadness, that Rice Krispies will no longer be made from whole grain rice but instead rice flour.  So Kellog’s adds to its list of ultra high processed foods and puts a dagger into Rice Krispie squares.  OK, with that cereal bombshell out of the way, onto the forts, towers and redoubts that adorn the harbour here.  I mean take your pick.

We took one ferry from Sliema to Valletta, took a leisurely walk across the peninsula, then caught another ferry from Valletta to Cospicua.  Then we wandered the cobbly side streets, very “characterful” as they say on Escape to the Country, which are blissfully less touristy than Valletta.

Grand Staircase and Chapel in Inquisitor’s Palace

We stopped at the Inquisitor’s Palace.  Any adult who came of age in the 1970s was aware of Python.  And anyone aware of Python knows the Spanish Inquisition sketch.  As a museum, meh.  But, you know, couple of centuries of fear in the walls.

A book that would if in your possession condemn you; the inquisition room; the torture chamber (which, a placard noted, was only used if you claimed to be innocent but the inquisitor knew your were guilty)

From there we went to a fort.  Fort St. Angelo.  Another Fort.  A-no-ther-fort.  If you only have time for one fort on your fort list…  The museum here was not bad, but the layout was excellent, the views stupendous, and it was lightly visited and serene (or as serene as you can get in Malta).

Stupendous views from Fort St. Angelo (mostly back towards Valletta)
Harbour at Vittorioso (some serious yacht money; one was called “Exit Strategy”)

We doubled back through Valletta afterwards, the Upper Barrakka gardens, pleasant although very busy, which sit atop the Saluting Battery (so two sides of the harbour could, once upon a time, repel invaders at the same time).  Stopped in at an Anglican church en route back to the hotel.  Then a light and delicious supper at the Seafood Market Grill in Sliema.

Harbour views in Vittorioso, returning to Valletta

Above gallery: Upper Barrakka gardens, the Saluting Battery, a terrifying glass elevator for those with a Euro to spare, and views back towards Fort St Angelo.

Tempura sea bream, ahi tuna, anchovies on toast
Sunset from the balcony of our hotel room

The author of Here Hare has traveled to over 45 countries on six continents, and has lived in Canada, the UK and Australia.

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