A Light Nosh

We have another day here but decided to have our last big dinner the night before at Hernan Gipponi`s restaurant in the Fierro Hotel. We were going to spend our last four nights there but it was much easier to use the left luggage facility at the Glu.  Gipponi is another local chef who was Read More

The Long Hot Good Friday

Not much to report.  We walked around.  It was a great day but didn`t involve any culture or sport or shopping.  The only crisis was that my laptop died, probably from the heat–I was on the roof, surfing–and ever since I`ve had to use the hotel laptop with a Spanish keyboard (an apostrophe is CTL Read More

Searching for a Pith Helmet

So during our morning in San Telmo we spent a few hours antiquing.  The best antique market ever.  Ever!  I’m not so much about the chandeliers and crystal and jewellery and furniture, of which there was plenty, including some egregious examples of old school safaris (e.g., tables with elephant tusks for legs).  But everyday items Read More

Government, Slums and the New Rich

The Casa Rosada, or red house, once Argentina`s White House   View from the balcony where Madonna, er Evita Peron, made her famous speeches   Interior Courtyard (one of many)   We did a tour of the Casa Rosada.  The once upon a time seat of government, now mainly for ceremonial use. From the Hall Read More

Closed Door Dining

Our left luggage was in the room, waiting for us.  We unpacked, organized, and took off for a dinner at Casa Saltshaker.  Buenos Aires has a tradition of what they call “closed door” restaurants; these can be nightly or irregular events where a chef cooks at his home, someone else’s home, or an undisclosed location Read More

Chasing Waterfalls

Two days in Iguazu, nothing about the (silly lyrics but extremely catchy) TLC song…   SS got up as if it was a workday: 6:30!  Just over an hour later we were in a cab to EAP, one of two BA airports (their waterfront is an expressway, an airport and another expressway…).  It was a Read More

Exercise Caution

Um…maybe you should see someone about that?   Again with the clouds and remnants of rain.  But I’ve wised up.  SS said I’d be sorry to not bring a jacket but by early afternoon it was 23 although hotter with the humidity and it stayed hot and lovely right until evening.  I would say the Read More

Day of the Dead

Fall.  Last of the jacaranda. What a spectacular gorgeous day.  Clear blue sky.  And so darn hot!  I had to sunscreen my head to avoid burning in those pesky spots where the hair has stopped reproducing… We took a lovely walk towards Recoleta, past the botanical gardens and zoo, to the Evita museum.  It was Read More

Iron Chef Battle: El Baqueano vs. Mocoto

  That’s the high end restaurant.  Seriously. Ten course dinner at El Baqueano.  You say it like it’s written.  But first, the cab ride.  It was way, way, way far away, in San Telmo, the other side of the centre, and although there are wide boulevards and most of the city is on a one-way Read More

A Day at the Opera

The Papal flag outnumbers the Argentinian flag about two to one right now   Old meets new.  It’s a motif…   Obelisco, the “iconic eyesore.”  Next on Gregor’s list for English Bay? The one on the left is dreaming In a land that’s never heard of HVAC comes the dream of AC for everyone.  It Read More

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